November Focus - “Party Season” Survival Guide
It’s that time of year again…. Party Season.
We are on the downward slide to the end of the year and a visit from the jolly fat man in red, which means parties, drinks, dinners, long lunches - you name it!
(It also means that I’m probably having to listen to the Mariah Carey Christmas album on loop ad nauseum. I love you Mimi, but I need a remix or something; I can only take so much)
….. But how do you get through the late nights, bad diet and dehydration - without sacrificing looking as gorgeous as you do? Luckily for you, I have the answers!
Don’t forget to take your makeup off! - I know this one is easier said than done some nights, but if you can’t do a thorough cleanse, even getting the bulk of it off with a Make-up Eraser will help to prevent dullness and congestion. If you haven’t got one - message me. I’ll order it in! Follow up with a good tri-cleanse in the morning (Cleanser, BT-Sonic and a fresh Make-up Eraser) to make sure you’re squeaky clean.
Be mindful of what you’re consuming - Diet is a massive factor impacting party season breakouts. Try and incorporate a “Love your Gut” Smoothie daily to help support your digestion of all the delicious snacks coming your way. Adding in some vitality powder will also help to boost your essential vitamins to help balance all the treats. Drink water during the day as much as possible to ensure adequate hydration.
Book your beauty appointments ahead of time!! Let me know what you’ve got on, so I can work your appointments around your events, with time for corrections if needed. Let’s keep each other organised!
Have a few sheet masks in the fridge for emergencies. Chilling them will also help reduce puffiness around your eyes when hungover. You’ll still feel like hell, but you won’t look it!
Embrace overnight treatments - This is my ultimate lazy-girl hack.
For overnight exfoliating, grab your Mesoestetic Glycolic+E+F ampoules and use 1-2 nights a week.
For a surge of hydration, your Hydra-vital Mask is perfect. Massage it in like a Moisturiser and head to bed. Follow up with the Bestow Soaking Ritual for best results.
Wake up Flawless!
I can’t wait to welcome you into my new space and help you stay stunning this event season.
See you soon!
Katie J xx
October Focus - “Introducing Honest”
It only occurred to me the other day that I have never formally introduced me, my business and my own practicing philosophies with you! If you’re a skin junkie like me, you’ll learn a lot this coming month.
Each day, I’ll be sharing something about The Honest Beauty Collective - whether it’s discussing our treatments and why you will love them, to sharing what’s so special about each of the brands I work with. The “why” is always an important factor for me; because understanding the “why” leads to solutions - and I have plenty.
I hope that by the end of the month, the only “why” question you have left is “Why didn’t I find The Honest Beauty Collective sooner!
Stay happy, healthy and hydrated,
Katie J xx
September Focus - Spring Cleaning Your Life
Ok, even I admit that sounds a bit dramatic (even by my standards!); but I’m aiming big this month and hopefully it inspires you to consider some positive changes in your life, too!
This September, I’m focusing on spring cleaning in every area of my life - especially my body. The effects of these changes are aimed at promoting an optimal healing environment internally to radiate health externally. The steps I lay out here will be expanded on throughout the month, as I road-test a few different wellness-oriented practices and share my experiences with you.
You’ll love September if you:
want to know how to cull your products cupboard to create more bathroom space (and room for NEW goodies),
what ingredients you need to keep your skin looking Spring-ready,
learn about the benefits of things like dry body brushing, gratitude journalling and mindfulness on your skin and health in general,
understand gut health, how it impacts your skin and overall wellness and what’s involved,
see what happens when I attempt the 7 day gut health reset program.
I’ve recently discovered Bestow Beauty - a range of nutritional and wellness supports to max out your results and treat root causes of conditions like acne. What you put on your face is only part of your process towards getting results - everything you put in your mouth will impact your end result. I’m going to add the disclaimer here that I am not a nutritionist or dietician in any way, shape or form - but I do believe in evidence-informed practice and I’m sharing wisdom from the people who are (and references will be provided!).
Stay Healthy, Well, and Hydrated,
Katie J xx
Delving Into the Pathophysiology of Dry Skin: Understanding the Root Causes
Dry skin, medically known as xerosis, is a common dermatological condition characterized by a lack of moisture and lubrication in the skin. Understanding the pathophysiology of dry skin is crucial in effectively managing and treating this condition. Let's explore the underlying mechanisms that contribute to dry skin.
1. Skin Barrier Dysfunction:
One of the primary factors in the pathophysiology of dry skin is impaired skin barrier function. The outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, acts as a protective barrier against environmental irritants and loss of moisture. When this barrier is compromised due to factors such as harsh cleansers, aging, or genetic predisposition, the skin is more prone to dryness and dehydration.
2. Lipid Barrier Deficiency:
Lipids, such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's hydration levels. In individuals with dry skin, there is often a deficiency in these essential lipids, leading to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced moisture retention. Restoring the lipid barrier through skincare products containing ceramides can help improve skin hydration.
3. Decreased Natural Moisturizing Factors:
Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are substances present in the skin that help maintain hydration levels by attracting and retaining water. Dry skin is often associated with a decrease in NMFs, such as urea, lactic acid, and amino acids, resulting in reduced water-binding capacity and increased dryness. Using moisturizers with humectants like hyaluronic acid can help replenish NMFs and enhance skin hydration.
4. Inflammation and Irritation:
Inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, can exacerbate dry skin symptoms due to increased inflammation and compromised skin barrier function. Chronic inflammation in the skin disrupts the natural moisture balance and impairs the skin's ability to retain water, leading to persistent dryness and flakiness.
5. Environmental Factors:
External factors, such as low humidity, harsh weather conditions, and prolonged exposure to air conditioning or heating, can also contribute to dry skin. These environmental stressors can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier, resulting in moisture loss and dryness.
Dry skin is a multifactorial condition influenced by skin barrier dysfunction, lipid barrier deficiency, decreased NMFs, inflammation, and environmental factors. By addressing these underlying mechanisms and incorporating hydrating ingredients and protective measures into your skincare routine, you can effectively manage dry skin and restore skin hydration. Understanding the pathophysiology of dry skin is key to implementing tailored skincare strategies for optimal skin health.
August Focus - Hydration
Unlocking the Secrets of Skin Hydration: Factors You Need to Know
Proper skin hydration is essential for a healthy and radiant complexion. Our skin acts as a barrier, protecting us from external aggressors such as pollution, UV rays, and harsh weather conditions. Understanding the factors that affect skin hydration is crucial in maintaining skin health and vitality.
1. Lifestyle Choices:
One of the key factors influencing skin hydration is our lifestyle choices. Factors such as diet, water intake, smoking, and alcohol consumption can significantly impact the skin's hydration levels. A diet rich in fruits, vegetables, and omega-3 fatty acids can help keep the skin hydrated from within.
2. Environmental Factors:
Environmental factors play a major role in skin hydration. Exposure to harsh weather conditions, pollution, and UV rays can strip the skin of its natural oils and moisture, leading to dryness and dehydration. Proper protection through sunscreen, moisturizers, and barrier creams can help combat the effects of environmental stressors.
3. Skincare Products:
The skincare products we use can also influence skin hydration. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and ceramides help attract and retain moisture in the skin, promoting hydration. However, overuse of harsh cleansers or exfoliants can disrupt the skin's moisture barrier, leading to dryness.
4. Age and Hormones:
As we age, our skin's ability to retain moisture decreases, leading to dryness and dehydration. Hormonal changes during menopause or puberty can also affect skin hydration levels. Using hydrating serums, moisturizers, and treatments targeted for your age group can help combat these effects.
5. Genetics:
Genetics also play a role in determining skin hydration levels. Some individuals naturally have oilier skin, while others have drier skin types. Understanding your skin type and using products tailored to your specific needs can help maintain optimal hydration levels.
Maintaining skin hydration is a multifaceted process that involves a combination of lifestyle choices, environmental protection, skincare products, age, hormones, and genetics. By addressing these factors and incorporating hydration-boosting ingredients into your skincare routine, you can achieve a healthy and glowing complexion. Remember, hydrated skin is happy skin!
Stay Glowy!
Katie J xx
July Focus: Aging
Aging is inevitable; but it’s not all doom and gloom. If you’re looking at your parents and (in terms of their skin) thinking “it’s a no from me” - you absolutely CAN age well. It takes commitment, but caring for your skin isn’t a luxury; it’s a health care necessity. Your skin has to endure throughout your lifespan, and it’s pretty important- especially if you like and want to keep your “insides” where they are!
Aging as a skin concern is multi-faceted. Understanding the factors that contribute to an aged appearance is essential to helping address the issues we may see in the mirror.
The primary concerns tend to be related to skin laxity, volume loss, lines/ wrinkles and unwanted pigmentation. Unwanted facial hair is also a prominent concern, but that’s an entirely different blog post!
Looking at aging from a bioscience perspective, many of these concerns have interrelated pathophysiology. Let’s look at some causes/ factors:
Volume Loss/ Skin Laxity:
often occurs due to weight loss or trauma.
Also occurs with age, due to the depletion or movement of facial fat pads/ muscular atrophy in the face.
Treatments that build collagen, such as skin needling, help to address this by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis to re-volumise the space. This is a slow process. Immediate, short-term, visible results can be attained with a visit to a good aesthetics Nurse (if this is your jam, I know some people you should meet!).
Lines and Wrinkles:
Remember those UVA/ “Aging Rays” I mentioned back in February in our SPF Blog? This is where Sunscreen becomes the most underrated anti-aging product on the market. The genetic hallmarks of aging include:
shortening of the telomeres (found at the end of your chromosomes and kind of like the plastic bit on the end of your shoelaces- they are necessary for cell division and protection of your genetic information),
genomic instability/ epigenetic modification of DNA,
altered cellular communication,
dysfunction in ATP production in the mitochondria and detecting nutrients,
stem cell exhaustion, cellular senescence, and;
loss of proteostasis (homeostatic control over protein building and turnover).
SPF specifically protects against the skin mounting an inflammatory response to the UV radiation, which reduces the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) - a type of free radical- attacking and damaging the proteins in the skin structure responsible for support and structure- collagen and elastin.
Who’s ready to “slip, slop, slap” now?!
Unwanted Pigmentation:
I want you to visualise an apple that’s been cut in half and left on the bench for an hour. When you come back to it, it’s turned brown and kinda gross, right?
This process is called oxidation and it’s happening to you right now if you’re unprepared and unprotected. If you’re protecting yourself from the elements with an antioxidant serum (eg Mesoestetic AOX Ferulic), you are preventing unwanted pigmentation by:
The Antioxidant component neutralising the free radical assault that leads to DNA damage that often initiates melanogenesis (“making pigment”) as a trauma response, and
Vitamin C/ Ascorbic Acid is known to have tyrosinase-inhibiting effects of the skin, which suppresses the body’s inflammatory response in terms of melanogenesis.
Treatment- wise, we can look at fighting the signs of aging with a combination of peels (to remove surface level indications like sun damage, textural abnormalities and dull skin) and skin needling (to restructure the skin from the Dermis) to start treating the deeper issues surrounding loss of volume, laxity and structural integrity.
The Age Element facials are launching soon for those who want a bit more luxury with their age-targeting treatments, as it’s a combination of synergistic compounds to aid in brightening, redensifying and strengthening the skin. The ingredients we need to look at for your homecare will include some gentle AHAs to encourage desquamation, Vitamin A to normalise cell function and repair DNA Damage, Antioxidants to protect against free radical damage and brighten and hydrating humectants to reduce hydration loss.
You’re never too early to start the discussion. When you’re ready to chat, I’m listening.
Katie J xx
June Focus: Acne Awareness Month
With June being Acne Awareness Month, I thought I’d kick off strong with some frequently asked questions about acne and how to treat it, based on eleven years of consult data from my time in Industry (and my recent post, asking for your best questions!).
Q: What’s causing my breakouts?
A: This is the hardest question to answer, because it’s quite individual.
The skin science behind breakouts involves excessive oil secretion, hyperkeratinisation (excess skin call build up) blocking the pores, proliferation of anaerobic bacteria and the body’s inflammatory response to fight this. This is often in response to modifiable factors such as diet, skin habits and hygiene, environment, poorly formulated skincare/ cosmetics and not knowing what your skin actually needs in terms of ingredient profile (often, because influencers guide product choices more than they should).
Q: What lifestyle factors impact acne?
A: So many! This is why we dive DEEP in our consultation.
Common factors to think about are:
how often you clean/ wash things that regularly touch your face? We’re talking phone screen/ communication equipment, face masks, pillow cases, makeup tools. If it’s near your face, it’s gotta be clean!
What you’re using on your skin (skincare and makeup) and how/ where it’s applied.
What hair/ body products you’re using.
Diet and hydration.
Environment: indoor/outdoor workplaces, climate control, pollution etc.
This list is not exhaustive, but it’s a start.
Q: What treatments are available for managing acne at The Honest Beauty Collective?
A: Depending on the severity and presentation, we could look at custom peeling, LED and Acnelan as treatment options.
Q: How do you treat acne scarring?
A: Treatment for scarring depends on a few factors:
- Fitzpatrick/ Phototype: This index is generally considered for treatments like laser hair reduction, but I consider it when planning to biohack your skin to greatness. Darker skin types (Fitzpatrick 4/5/6 - think Asia and Sub-Continent/ Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern/ South American/ African skins) are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so the risk of this needs to be mitigated as much as possible, to get a more unified result.
- Type of Scarring: there are so many! Depressed scars include pigmented, ice pick, box car or rolling scar; raised scarring can include hypertrophic, keloid or papular scar. This is usually determined during your consultation and planned for accordingly. Depressed scars are the easiest to treat, but it’s a long-term process. There are no “quick fixes” in collagen induction!
- Area being treated: Is a body breakout, one on the face, or a bit of both? Body skin is generally thicker, so may require a deeper treatment than the face. When considering needling modalities, depth vs area is a major consideration.
- Is the area still actively breaking out? I generally focus on clearing the breakouts first, so I only have to fix one issue at a time, but this isn’t always practical.
The types of treatments I usually use for acne scarring include a combination of peel treatments to help with texture and skin function and skin needling to help stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. LED is paired with both to help nurture optimal healing. One of my dream facial devices- Endymed Pro - can actually treat active acne and scarring at the same time!
Another area of consideration is your homecare, and what beneficial skin ingredients will help you. AHAs/ BHAs, Vitamin A/ Derivatives, Copper Peptide and Tyrosinase Inhibitors are usually my go-to classes of ingredients, for the following reasons:
AHA/BHAs: help with cell turnover to decongest the skin.
Vitamin A/ Derivatives: normalise skin function to reduce hyperkeratinisation.
Copper Peptide: similar skin benefits to vitamin c, but helps control inflammation and minimise bacterial load on the skin without excess oil.
Tyrosinase Inhibitors: used to suppress the body’s pigmentation response to the inflammation and trauma of the breakout. This in turn will minimise revision work for scarring.
If you have even more questions, or need some help - everything you seek is a consultation away.
Katie J xx
The Power of “NO”
It’s a bit of a scary word sometimes, isn’t it? It’s also the last thing that anyone wants to hear when they’re excited about something. It’s not a word we like to use often, but if we do, it’s for a good reason.
The most common reasons we might say no are:
the treatment or product you want is not suitable for you.
there are specific risk factors that could impact your safety.
You will need to be prepped for the treatment with specific ingredients to reduce risk or to attain a better result.
We don’t feel that we can meet your realistic expectations to our full potential, for whatever reason.
There is always a “why” for every no, and when it comes up, we will explain to you why we are saying no, then provide you with the solution that we feel will give you the best possible results for your treatment.
For us, patient care is central to what we do. We want to partner with you and be completely transparent, ethical and accountable about the process that gets you to where you want to be. The end will always justify the means!
So if you hear a no, please don’t be disheartened- our no is not the end of your journey towards your skin aspirations; it’s a “not yet”.
Trust the process.
Trust our experience.
We got you.
Katie J xx
February Focus: SPF - How it works and why you need it!
SPF is THE MOST UNDERRATED anti-aging product in the market.
I said what I said. - and I mean it.
When you consider that the MOST common aesthetic concerns when we discuss aging relate to fine lines/ wrinkles, unwanted pigmentation and volume loss, it may surprise you to discover that regularly using and reapplying your sunscreen can prevent most of this damage occurring in the first place. It may also surprise you that, despite consistent, long-term messages regarding the use of sunscreen being shared publicly- such as the “Slip, Slop, Slap” and “There’s nothing healthy about a tan” campaigns - Australia still has one of the highest incidences of Melanoma globally. I’m a passionate advocate for sun protection for incredibly personal reasons; my Dad’s cancer journey began with Melanoma, so now I am more diligent myself in terms of my exposure and encourage my clients to do the same. I’ve answered some of the most frequently asked questions regarding SPF Use below.
What does SPF even mean, and why is it important?
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) as a rating indicates the level of protection you have from Ultra-Violet Radiation (like the Sun’s rays). Sunscreens sold in Australia must be labelled with an SPF of at least 4 to the highest rating of 50+, with an SPF of 30 or higher being the most recommended. How to gauge your level or protection as a duration is as follows:
(Time it takes to go red in the sun) x (SPF Rating) = (how many minutes of exposure you will be protected for).
Example: Say it takes you 10 minutes of sun exposure for your skin to start turning red, and you have an SPF 30+ applied; this means you have up to 300 minutes of protection from the exposure with adequately applied SPF.
What is “Broad-Spectrum”, and why do I need it?
“Broad Spectrum” relates to what kind of ultra-violet radiation you’re protected from. Our Sun emits three kinds of radiation:
Infrared (the heat we can feel),
Visible Light (sunlight), and;
Ultra-Violet Radiation (cannot be seen or felt).
Ultra-Violet Light can then be broken down into three more categories:
UVA (“Aging Rays”): transmits freely through the earth’s atmosphere. These can even penetrate glass, so if you thought you were safe inside… you’re not.
UVB (“Burning Rays”): about 15% of UVB transmits through to the earth’s atmosphere. The rest is absorbed by ozone.
UVC: is absorbed by ozone and does not reach the earth’s surface.
When a sunscreen is designated as “Broad-Spectrum”, it implies protection against both UVA and UVB radiation.
How does this relate to me looking younger (and preventing melanoma)?
Remember those “Aging Rays” - this is where you’re going to decide SPF is your new BFF.
“UV exposure may account for up to 80% of visible signs of aging in the skin including dry appearance, scalping, wrinkling and impaired pigmentation, and photoaging correlates with cancer risk.” (Amaro-Ortiz et al.).
So, without you knowing, every single day, your skin is being damaged by UV. It causes damage to your cellular DNA, it demolishes your natural collagen and elastin in the skin and is produces free radicals, which then further the damage to your skin through oxidative stress. No matter how you look at it, it’s happening - so what can you do to protect yourself and look 80 times better than everyone else in your future Residential Aged Care Facility?
That’s right; wear some sunscreen!
How much sunscreen do I ACTUALLY need to apply, and how often?
An average sized adult requires about 35mL or 7 teaspoons for a full-body application; one teaspoon for each limb, one for the front of the body, one for the back of the body, and one teaspoon for the head.
Application on clean, dry skin should occur a minimum of 20 minutes prior to exposure, and reapplication should take place every two hours - especially when outdoors.
Do I HAVE to use it, because it feels icky?!
The short answer? YES!
If textural preference is a big consideration for you, please let us know - we have OODLES of different sunscreens for you to try - you’re bound to find your perfect match!
Generally, texture comes down to whether or not you are using a Chemical SPF or a Physical SPF. My personal preference is for a Physical SPF on any area of your body that I am treating to minimise risk of overexposure, but if you absolutely HATE it, we will find you something safe and enjoyable to use - because when you LOVE IT, you WANT to put the product on!
Stay protected out there!
Katie J xx
References:
Why do we have to consult first?
Consultations - when completed fully and correctly - help us to know how to help you, and allows us an opportunity to answer any questions you may have and to help set a realistic expectation of your results.
We sometimes feel like we are magicians when we pull off an amazing transformation, but the journey is equally important as the end result. What your therapist achieves for you in clinic accounts for about 20-30% of your overall results; the other 70-80% occurs as a result or your own consistency and commitment to YOURSELF to change your own habits. These are the types of things we discuss in your consultation.
In some instances, we may also refer you to external practitioners, such as a naturopath, when we feel that there is “more going on” internally than we can realistically manage on our own. Advice like this will help to support your efforts in obtaining your desired result and help us to keep you safe, healthy and have the best chance at success. We don’t recommend practitioners or products that we wouldn’t engage with personally, to give you additional peace of mind.
Katie K and I have been a team for a long time, and we can’t wait to work WITH YOU to get you your best face yet!
Katie J xx